Author: Walter McGuire

The wrong MIG welding wire can turn a simple project into a frustrating mess of porosity, weak welds, and constant rework.

I learned this the hard way when I tried welding rusty trailer steel with premium ER70S-6 wire meant for clean metal. The welds looked decent until I stress-tested them and found cracks running through what should have been solid joints.

MIG Welding Wire Types: The Complete Guide

After testing dozens of wire types across countless projects, I can tell you that understanding MIG welding wire types separates frustrated beginners from capable welders who get consistent results every time.

This guide covers every major wire type, what those AWS classification codes actually mean, and which wire belongs in your machine for specific projects.

Solid Wire vs Flux-Cored Wire: The Fundamental Difference

The first decision every welder faces is choosing between solid and flux-cored wire. These aren’t minor variations—they’re fundamentally different approaches to MIG welding.

Solid MIG wire is exactly what it sounds like: a solid metal strand drawn to a specific diameter. It’s clean, feeds smoothly through drive rolls, and produces minimal spatter when set up correctly. But solid wire cannot function without shielding gas.

The gas displaces oxygen and nitrogen from the weld area, preventing contamination that would ruin your weld. I’ve seen plenty of beginners try to run solid wire without gas, confused why their welds look like porous Swiss cheese.

Flux-cored wire contains a hollow center filled with flux compounds—deoxidizers, arc stabilizers, and shielding agents. When you weld, this flux burns off, creating a protective gas cloud around the weld pool. Some flux-cored wires are “self-shielding” (gasless), while others still require external gas for optimal results.

I keep both types in my shop because they serve different purposes. For fabrication with clean materials inside my shop, solid wire produces cleaner, more professional welds. For field repairs or outdoor projects where wind would blow away shielding gas, flux-cored is the only practical choice.

Understanding AWS Wire Classifications

Those cryptic codes like ER70S-6 and ER4043 aren’t random—they’re standardized classifications from the American Welding Society that tell you exactly what you’re getting. Once you learn to decode them, you’ll never buy the wrong wire again.

Let’s break down ER70S-6, the most common MIG welding wire:

That “70” is crucial—it means welds made with this wire have a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 pounds per square inch. That’s plenty strong for nearly any structural application.

The “S” tells us this is solid wire, while flux-cored wires use “T” (tubular) in their designations.

That final number represents specific chemical variations. In the ER70S series, each suffix number indicates different levels of deoxidizers and alloying elements:

• ER70S-2: Lower deoxidizers, for very clean steel
• ER70S-3: General purpose, moderate deoxidizers
• ER70S-6: High deoxidizers, excellent on dirty or rusty steel
• ER70S-7: Similar to S-6 but formulated for better wetting

MIG Welding Wire for Mild Steel: ER70S Series

Mild steel welding represents about 80% of what most welders actually do. Auto body work, fabrication, trailer repair, general construction—it’s all mild steel. That’s why the ER70S series dominates the market.

ER70S-6: The General-Purpose Champion

ER70S-6 is the workhorse of MIG welding wire. It contains higher levels of silicon and manganese deoxidizers, which means it tolerates less-than-perfect surface conditions better than other wires.

I’ve used ER70S-6 on everything from pristine sheet metal to rusty farm equipment that hadn’t been cleaned in decades. The high deoxidizer content “floats out” contaminants, producing sound welds even on questionable base metal.

ER70S-6 vs ER70S-3: Which Should You Choose?

After years of testing both in various conditions, I recommend ER70S-6 as your default wire unless you know you’ll always be welding pristine materials. The price difference is minimal, and the added forgiveness is worth it.

For auto body work where appearance matters and you’re welding clean sheet metal, ER70S-3 produces slightly less silicon “fingerprint” discoloration and requires less cleanup. But honestly, I’ve used ER70S-6 for plenty of auto body work with excellent results.

Aluminum MIG Welding Wire: ER4043 vs ER5356

Aluminum welding requires different equipment considerations (you’ll typically need a spool gun or push-pull system) and specifically formulated aluminum wire. The two most common types are ER4043 and ER5356.

ER4043: The Aluminum All-Rounder

ER4043 is a 5% silicon aluminum alloy that most welders use as their default aluminum wire. It flows well, produces a clean weld bead, and is more forgiving to weld than pure aluminum.

I’ve found ER4043 easier to feed through MIG systems because it’s slightly stiffer than 5356. It also produces welds that match well after anodizing, which matters for certain applications.

ER5356: When Strength Matters

ER5356 contains 5% magnesium and produces stronger welds than 4043. It’s the go-to choice for structural aluminum applications, marine environments, and situations where maximum strength is critical.

The tradeoff? ER5356 is softer and can be more challenging to feed. It also darkens more during anodizing, which might matter for appearance-critical work.

Stainless Steel MIG Wire Types

Stainless steel requires specific filler metals that match or complement the base metal alloy. Using the wrong wire can cause corrosion issues or metallurgical problems down the line.

ER308L: For 304 Stainless Steel

ER308L is the standard wire for welding 304 stainless steel, which is the most common stainless alloy you’ll encounter. The “L” stands for low carbon, which helps prevent carbide precipitation during welding.

Carbide precipitation occurs when high heat causes chromium to combine with carbon, reducing the chromium available to protect against corrosion. Low-carbon electrodes minimize this problem.

ER316: For Marine and Chemical Environments

ER316 contains molybdenum for enhanced corrosion resistance, especially against chloride environments like marine applications or chemical processing. Use it to weld 316 stainless steel.

I’ve used ER316 when building equipment for coastal environments where salt exposure is constant. The extra cost is worth it when corrosion resistance is critical.

ER309: For Dissimilar Metal Welding

ER309 is designed specifically for welding stainless steel to mild steel or other dissimilar metals. It creates a transition zone that accommodates the different metallurgical properties of both metals.

I’ve relied on ER309 when fabricating equipment that combines stainless surfaces with carbon steel structural components. Without this specialized wire, the weld zone becomes a weak point prone to cracking.

Flux-Cored Wire Types

Flux-cored wires deserve their own category because they’re fundamentally different from solid wires. They contain flux compounds that provide shielding, alloying, and slag formation.

E71T-GS: The Gasless Standard

E71T-GS is the most common self-shielding flux-cored wire. The “GS” designation means “General Single-pass”—it’s designed for single-pass welds, not multi-pass applications.

This is my go-to wire for field repairs, fence work, and outdoor projects where dragging gas bottles is impractical. The welds aren’t as pretty as solid wire welds, but they get the job done.

Shielding gas creates cleaner welds, but flux-cored wire works without it. That’s invaluable when you’re welding in a breezy yard or on a job site without gas access.

E71T-11: Similar to E71T-GS

E71T-11 is essentially the same wire with slightly different specification formatting. Both are self-shielding, general-purpose flux-cored wires for mild steel.

Gas-Shielded Flux-Core (E70T-1, E71T-1)

These flux-cored wires still require shielding gas but offer advantages over solid wire: higher deposition rates, deeper penetration, and better bridgeability over gaps.

I’ve used gas-shielded flux-core when building heavy structural components where I wanted the high deposition rate and deep penetration. The welds require slag removal between passes, but the productivity gain is worth it for thick materials.

Specialty MIG Welding Wires

Beyond the standard wire types, specialty wires exist for specific applications that most hobbyists rarely encounter but that professional welders should know about.

Cast Iron MIG Wire

Welding cast iron requires special nickel-based wires like ENi55 or ENiFe-CI. These wires accommodate cast iron’s high carbon content and prevent cracking in the heat-affected zone.

I’ve successfully repaired cracked engine blocks and cast iron machinery using these wires, but cast iron welding requires preheating and careful heat control. The wire alone won’t guarantee success.

Copper and Nickel Alloy Wires

ERCu and ERCuSi-A wires exist for copper welding, while various nickel alloys (ERNi, ERNiCr) handle high-temperature and corrosion-resistant applications. These are specialized wires for specific industries rather than general fabrication.

Metal-Cored Wire

Metal-cored wires look like flux-cored but contain metal powder rather than flux. They offer high deposition rates like flux-cored but produce minimal slag like solid wire. They’re expensive but increasingly popular in high-production environments.

Choosing the Right MIG Wire Size

Wire diameter selection matters just as much as wire type. The wrong size leads to poor weld quality, feeding problems, or unnecessary expense.

.030 vs .035: Which Should You Use?

This is one of the most common questions I get, and the answer depends on your typical material thickness. After welding with both sizes extensively, here’s my practical guidance:

Choose .030 wire if: You mostly work with 18-22 gauge material, do auto body work, or have a smaller 110V welder. The .030 diameter provides better control on thin materials and runs well on lower-amperage machines.

Choose .035 wire if: You regularly weld 1/8″ to 1/4″ material, have a 220V welder, or want higher deposition rates. The .035 diameter handles thicker material better and deposits more metal per hour.

For most general fabrication shops, .035 is the sweet spot. For auto body or light sheet metal work, .030 is superior. Many welders keep both sizes on hand.

Troubleshooting Common Wire-Related Problems

Understanding wire types helps, but knowing what goes wrong saves countless hours of frustration. Here are the most common wire-related issues I’ve encountered and how to fix them:

Birdnesting at the Drive Rolls

Wire bunching up between the spool and drive rolls usually means incorrect drive roll tension or the wrong drive roll type. For solid wire, use V-groove drive rolls. For flux-cored, use knurled drive rolls. Adjust tension until the wire feeds smoothly without slipping.

Porosity in the Weld

Porous welds often trace back to wire condition or shielding issues. Rusty or contaminated wire causes porosity. So does insufficient gas flow or wind blowing away your shielding. Check your wire condition first—it should be clean and bright, not rusty or dull.

Poor Feed with Aluminum Wire

Aluminum’s soft nature makes it notorious for feeding problems. Use a spool gun or push-pull system, U-groove drive rolls (not V-groove), and keep the cable as straight as possible. Minimal bend radius matters more with aluminum than any other wire type.

Wire Storage and Maintenance

Proper wire storage extends wire life and prevents feeding issues. I’ve seen perfectly good wire ruined by improper storage.

Keep wire in its original packaging until ready to use. Store spools in a dry area—humidity causes rust on steel wire that leads to feeding problems and porosity. Aluminum wire doesn’t rust but can oxidize, so keep it sealed.

Once opened, use wire within about 6 months for best results. Steel wire stored longer than this may develop surface rust even in decent conditions.

Shielding Gas Requirements by Wire Type

Frequently Asked Questions

Choosing the right MIG welding wire might seem overwhelming with all the codes and classifications, but it boils down to matching wire to base metal and application. Start with ER70S-6 .035 for general steel work, add E71T-GS for outdoor repairs, and expand into aluminum or stainless wires as your projects demand.

Welding parameters are the adjustable variables that control how your welding machine performs and the quality of the welds you create. These settings determine everything from penetration depth to bead appearance, and understanding them is the difference between strong, clean welds and weak, defective ones.

When I first started welding, I treated parameter settings like guesswork. I’d turn knobs until something looked decent, then wonder why my welds failed inspection. After 15 years in the trade and countless failed test plates, I’ve learned that welding parameters aren’t mysterious—they follow predictable rules that anyone can master with the right guidance.

The five welding parameters form an interconnected system. Change one, and you affect the others. This article breaks down each parameter with practical examples, real starting numbers you can use today, and troubleshooting guides that connect defects to specific parameter issues.

The CLAMS Framework Explained

The CLAMS acronym is the foundation every welding student learns first. It represents the five welding parameters you control while welding:

1. Current (C) – The amperage flowing through the electrode, controlling heat and penetration
2. Length (L) – The distance between the electrode tip and the workpiece, affecting voltage and arc stability
3. Angle (A) – The positioning of the torch relative to the workpiece in two dimensions
4. Manipulation (M) – How you move the torch during the weld to shape the bead
5. Speed (S) – How fast you travel along the joint, controlling heat input and deposition

These five parameters work together as a system. Increase your amperage without adjusting your travel speed, and you’ll burn through. Speed up without adding more filler, and your bead will be too narrow. The art of welding lies in balancing all five simultaneously.

Why CLAMS Matters

In my experience teaching welding students, the biggest breakthrough comes when they stop treating parameters as isolated knobs to turn randomly. When you understand CLAMS as a system, troubleshooting becomes logical instead of frustrating. You see a defect, trace it to the responsible parameter, and adjust with confidence.

The American Welding Society (AWS) identifies these as the essential variables in welding procedure specifications. Certification tests require you to demonstrate control over all five parameters. Job foremen look for welders who can articulate why they chose specific settings.

1. Current (Amperage) – The Heat Source

Current is measured in amperage (amps) and represents the amount of electrical current flowing through your welding circuit. It’s the primary heat source in all welding processes. More current equals more heat, which means deeper penetration and faster deposition.

Effects of Too Much Amperage

When I set my amperage too high, I see several telltale signs. The weld bead becomes excessively wide and convex. Spatter increases dramatically. On thinner materials, I can actually burn through completely, creating holes that ruin the workpiece. The heat-affected zone grows larger, which can weaken the base metal.

• Excessive penetration that may burn through
• Wider, flatter weld beads
• Increased spatter and arc instability
• Larger heat-affected zone (HAZ)
• Potential electrode overheating

Effects of Too Little Amperage

Insufficient amperage creates the opposite problem. The weld bead sits on top of the joint without fusing properly to the base metal. This is called lack of penetration, and it’s a critical defect that causes structural failures. The bead will be narrow, rope-like, and difficult to control.

• Lack of penetration (incomplete fusion)
• Narrow, ropey weld beads
• Difficulty starting and maintaining the arc
• Poor fusion at the weld root
• Slag inclusions in Stick welding

After helping a student troubleshoot failed bend tests for three weeks, we discovered his amperage was 20 amps too low for the 3/8-inch plate he was welding. Once we corrected it, every test passed.

2. Length of Arc – Voltage Control

Arc length directly affects your welding voltage. A longer arc requires more voltage to maintain stability, while a shorter arc needs less. In MIG welding, you set voltage directly on the machine. In TIG and Stick, you control arc length manually with your torch technique.

The Electrode Diameter Rule

The most reliable arc length guideline I’ve found is simple: keep your arc length approximately equal to your electrode diameter. For a 1/8-inch (3.2mm) rod, maintain about 1/8 inch of arc length. This rule works across all processes and materials.

Arc Length Problems

Too long an arc causes the arc to wander, creating a wide, unstable bead with excessive spatter. The voltage increases, which can reduce penetration and create a concave bead profile. Sound changes from a crisp crackle to a hollow, hissing noise.

Too short an arc creates the opposite issues. The electrode can stick to the workpiece (especially frustrating in Stick welding). The bead becomes narrow and tall with excessive penetration. In MIG welding, you’ll hear a popping sound as the wire stubs into the weld pool repeatedly.

3. Angle – Work and Travel Dimensions

Understanding welding angles changed my weld quality more than any other single parameter. Proper angle directs the arc energy where it needs to go, controls the weld pool shape, and ensures proper filler metal deposition.

Work Angle Explained

Work angle is the tilt of the torch perpendicular to the direction of travel. For a flat butt weld, you hold the torch at 90 degrees to the workpiece. For a T-fillet weld, you angle at 45 degrees so the arc distributes heat evenly between both plates.

I’ve seen students struggle with fillet welds for weeks because their work angle was off by just 10 degrees. The weld would wash out on one side and fail to fuse on the other. A simple angle correction fixed everything.

Travel Angle Explained

Travel angle is the tilt of the torch in the direction you’re moving. A 5-15 degree angle is standard for most welding. This slight forward angle (forehand technique) helps direct the arc and provides better visibility of the weld pool.

Pushing the torch (forehand) creates a wider, flatter bead with less penetration. Dragging the torch (backhand) produces a narrower, more convex bead with deeper penetration. I drag for thick penetration-critical welds and push for thin sheet metal to prevent burn-through.

4. Manipulation – Torch Movement Patterns

Manipulation is the most artistic aspect of welding parameters. It’s where your personal technique develops and where you can compensate for minor variations in other parameters. Good manipulation ensures proper sidewall fusion and creates the desired bead profile.

Stringer Beads

A stringer bead is created by moving the torch in a straight line without weaving. This technique produces the narrowest bead with the best penetration. I use stringers for root passes in pipe welding, deep penetration groove welds, and any situation where maximum weld strength is critical.

Stringer beads require steady hands and consistent travel speed. Any hesitation shows up as a bulge in the bead. Speeding up creates a narrow section that may lack fusion.

Weave Patterns

Weaving involves oscillating the torch side to side while moving forward. This widens the bead and helps ensure fusion at the joint edges. Different weave patterns serve different purposes:

• Straight weave: Simple side-to-side motion for wider beads
• Triangular weave: Dwell at each side for better edge fusion
• Figure-eight: Smooth, continuous motion for cosmetic welds
• J-weave: Pause at the center, useful for V-groove joints
• Circular weave: For filling wide gaps and build-up welds

When teaching weave techniques, I emphasize that the pause at each side is critical. Rushing the weave results in undercut along the toes of the weld. A brief dwell (about half a second) allows the weld pool to catch up and properly fuse to the sidewall.

5. Speed – Travel Speed Control

Travel speed directly controls heat input per inch of weld. Faster speed means less heat input, which reduces penetration and deposition rate. Slower speed increases heat input, creating deeper penetration but larger heat-affected zones.

Speed Indicators

After welding thousands of feet of bead, I can judge my speed by the sound and appearance of the weld pool. The right speed produces a steady, rhythmic crackle in MIG and a consistent hiss in TIG. The weld pool should be about 1.5 to 2 times the width of your electrode or wire.

Too fast, and the bead becomes narrow and rope-like with incomplete penetration. The arc sounds hollow and unstable. Too slow, and the bead piles up excessively, creating a convex shape that wastes filler metal and creates stress concentrations.

Heat Input Formula

For critical applications, welders calculate heat input using this formula:

Heat Input (kJ/in) = (Voltage x Amperage x 60) / (Travel Speed x 1000)

This calculation becomes essential for procedures requiring specific heat input ranges, such as pressure vessel welding or structural steel with thickness limitations. I’ve worked on jobs where heat input had to stay between 35 and 45 kJ/in—every inch of weld had to be precisely controlled.

Welding Parameter Starting Points Chart

One gap I’ve noticed in welding education is the lack of concrete starting numbers. Beginners know what parameters affect welding, but they don’t know where to set their machines. This chart provides practical starting points for common scenarios.

These starting points assume clean material, proper joint preparation, and typical welding position (flat or horizontal). Adjust from these baselines based on your actual conditions.

Process-Specific Welding Parameters

While CLAMS applies to all welding processes, each process has unique parameters and considerations. Understanding these differences helps you transition between MIG, TIG, and Stick welding with confidence.

MIG Welding Parameters

MIG (GMAW) welding adds several parameters beyond the basic CLAMS framework. Wire feed speed becomes a primary variable, and voltage replaces arc length as a direct machine setting.

Wire Feed Speed (WFS)

Wire feed speed, measured in inches per minute (IPM), directly controls your amperage in MIG welding. Higher WFS deposits more wire and increases amperage. On most machines, WFS and amperage have a roughly linear relationship.

Rule of thumb: For steel wire with 75/25 shielding gas, every 100 IPM of wire feed speed equals approximately 100 amps of output. This relationship varies slightly by machine and gas mixture.

Voltage Settings

MIG voltage controls the arc length and bead shape. Lower voltage creates a narrower, more convex bead with deeper penetration. Higher voltage produces a flatter, wider bead with less penetration.

I start with the machine’s recommended settings for my wire size and material thickness, then fine-tune. If the bead is too narrow and ropey, I increase voltage. If it’s too flat and wide, I decrease voltage.

Shielding Gas Parameters

Gas flow rate affects MIG weld quality. Standard flow is 25-35 cubic feet per hour (CFH) for most applications. Too little gas causes porosity; too much creates turbulence that pulls air into the arc.

Gas mixture changes how parameters behave. 100% CO2 penetrates deeper but creates more spatter. 75/25 argon/CO2 produces smoother arcs with less spatter but slightly less penetration. Tri-mix (90/10/He) adds helium for hotter arcs on stainless steel.

Advanced MIG Parameters

Modern MIG machines offer advanced parameter controls that can dramatically improve weld quality:

• Inductance: Controls how fast the machine responds to short circuits. Higher inductance produces smoother arcs with less spatter but slower transfer.
• Crater fill: Automatically ramps down wire feed and amperage at the end of the weld to fill the crater and prevent crater cracks.
• Burnback timing: Controls how long the wire stays energized after you release the trigger. Prevents the wire from sticking in the puddle.
• Pre-flow and post-flow: Gas flow timing before and after the weld. Pre-flow purges air from the nozzle; post-flow protects the cooling weld.

TIG Welding Parameters

TIG (GTAW) welding offers the most parameter control of any process. The fine adjustment possible in TIG makes it ideal for critical welds on thin materials and exotic alloys.

Amperage Control

TIG welding provides precise amperage control through a foot pedal or finger control. This allows you to adjust heat input in real-time during the weld. I decrease amperage at the end of the weld to fill the crater and prevent cracking.

AC Balance (Aluminum)

When TIG welding aluminum with AC current, balance control determines the percentage of time spent in electrode-positive (cleaning) versus electrode-negative (penetration) cycles.

Standard balance is around 70% EN/30% EP. More EP provides better oxide cleaning but reduces penetration and heats the tungsten more. For heavy cleaning action on dirty aluminum, I might set 60/40. For maximum penetration on clean material, I’ll go 80/20.

AC Frequency

AC frequency controls how many times per second the polarity switches. Standard factory settings are typically 60-120 Hz. Higher frequencies (up to 250 Hz on advanced machines) create a tighter, more focused arc with better directional control.

I use high frequency (150-200 Hz) for aluminum and low frequency (60-80 Hz) for magnesium. The difference in arc focus is visible immediately.

Pulse Parameters

Pulsed TIG alternates between peak amperage (welding current) and background amperage (holding current). Key pulse parameters include:

• Peak amps: The main welding current that creates penetration
• Background amps: Lower current (typically 20-40% of peak) that maintains the arc without adding heat
• Pulse frequency: Pulses per second (typically 1-5 Hz for manual TIG)
• Pulse width: Percentage of time spent at peak amperage

Pulsing reduces overall heat input while maintaining penetration. This is invaluable for thin sheet metal, out-of-position welding, and heat-sensitive materials like stainless steel.

Gas Flow and Cup Size

TIG shielding gas flow typically ranges from 15-25 CFH. Larger gas cups require higher flow rates. I use 15-18 CFH with a #7 cup for most work, increasing to 20-25 CFH for larger #8 or #10 cups.

Lens cups provide better gas coverage than standard cups, especially for aluminum where the weld pool is more sensitive to air contamination. I’ve seen porosity disappear just by switching to a lens cup on aluminum jobs.

Stick Welding Parameters

Stick (SMAW) welding has fewer adjustable parameters than MIG or TIG, but the parameters that exist are critical. The simplicity of Stick welding makes it reliable for field work where conditions are less than ideal.

Amperage Selection

Stick welding amperage depends primarily on electrode diameter and type. Each electrode has a recommended amperage range printed on the box. Start in the middle of the range and adjust based on your results.

Electrode manufacturers recommend amperage based on ideal conditions. In the field, I often need to adjust higher for cold material or lower for thin, heat-sensitive metal. Experience teaches you to read the weld and adjust instinctively.

Arc Force Control

Arc force (sometimes called “dig” or “hot start”) automatically increases amperage when the machine detects a short circuit. This prevents the electrode from sticking during welding.

Higher arc force settings help when welding with long electrodes in deep grooves where the arc length varies. Lower settings work better for root passes where you want precise control.

Hot Start

Hot start temporarily boosts amperage when you first strike the arc. This makes starting easier, especially with difficult-to-start electrodes like E6010 and E7018.

I always enable hot start for pipe welding work. The difference in arc starts is dramatic—smooth and consistent versus multiple strike attempts that leave tungsten inclusions.

VRD (Voltage Reduction Device)

VRD reduces open-circuit voltage when the welder is idling. This safety feature reduces shock risk in wet environments. Some welders complain that VRD makes starting harder, but modern machines compensate well.

For construction site work in damp conditions, VRD is non-negotiable for safety. I’ve worked job sites where it’s required by company policy.

Troubleshooting Weld Defects by Parameter

Every weld defect traces back to one or more welding parameters. Understanding these relationships transforms troubleshooting from guessing to systematic problem-solving.

Parameter Adjustment Workflow

When you encounter a weld defect, follow this systematic approach rather than randomly adjusting settings:

1. Identify the defect: Be specific—lack of fusion vs. lack of penetration, for example.
2. Determine the responsible parameter: Use the troubleshooting guide to narrow down which CLAMS parameter is likely causing the issue.
3. Make one adjustment at a time: Change only one parameter, then test. Multiple adjustments make it impossible to know what fixed (or worsened) the problem.
4. Document successful settings: Once you find parameters that work, write them down. Build your own reference library.

This systematic approach has saved me countless hours in the shop. Instead of making 20 random adjustments and hoping, I make 2-3 calculated corrections and solve the problem.

Frequently Asked Questions